giovedì 21 novembre 2013

Beginning of the bouldering season!

I am writing this post staring out the window, watching a big hailstorm hitting hard my hometown Novara. The temperatures drastically dropped off from 10° to 2° celsius...
Days are getting shorter and shorter and temps will soon be frigid.

I am pretty happy about my rope climbing successes this year and it looks like I won't try my project Goldrake yet this fall due to the horrible weather that strikes Northern Italy almost every day since I came back home after a couple of months climbing around Europe.
So this means it is likely the right time to switch motivations a bit and start the bouldering season.

And what better way to start off the bouldering season than with a bouldering trip?...
Albarracin sounded like a great destination for this time of the year so me and three other good friends,Max,Marco and Alice planned the trip and booked our tickets for one week of bouldering in this beautiful place!
Albarracin is a great and well known bouldering destination and defenitely one of the best bouldering spots in the world! The enviroment is beautiful with tick forests and canyons full of red sandstone blocs. The quality of the problems is just incredible and you can find all the styles of climbing and type of holds possible all in the same problem!
We have been really lucky with the weather, always good and dry and except for a couple of warm days at the beginning of the trip, we had great climbing conditions!
Of course, like every first time in a new place, I couldn't stop climbing and every day we visited a new secor or two(or three)!
I climbed alot of moderates and since I was here just for a week I decided to climb on stuffs that could take at most half an hour of my time...

Here is a list of the hardest problems I managed to climb during this trip, with my personal grades:

- Zarzaparilla 8a+ (8b on the guidebook, 1st try from the start, flashed the 8a version, tried the top sequence and sent from the start)
gabri moroni - zarzaparrilla from rivoli on Vimeo.

- Cosmos 8a
Gabriele Moroni, Cosmos from rivoli on Vimeo.

- Klem's Traverse 7c+ flash (8a in the guidebook)
Gabriele Moroni, Klem's traverse from rivoli on Vimeo.

- Zarzamora 7c+ flash (8a in the guidebook)
gabri moroni - zarzamora (flash) from rivoli on Vimeo.

- Fuerte a Muerte 7c+ (8a in the guidebook)
- El Varano 7c+ (8a in the guidebook)
- Zombie Nation 7c+
gabri moroni - zombie nation from rivoli on Vimeo.

- Revenge 7c+
Gabriele Moroni, Revenge from rivoli on Vimeo.

- Monos sit 7c flash (8a in the guidebook)
- Control de Calidad 7c flash (7c+ in the guidebook)
- Fido Dido 7c flash
- El Orejas de las Regletas 7c (8a in the guidebook)
- La Fuente 7b+ flash (7c in the guidebook)

Back in Italy I rested a few days to grow my skin back.
Last weekend I felt recovered and the skin looked perfect and thick again. The weather was good but it has been raining the days before but I was too psyched to climb after some days off...
I couldn't find anybody so I drove alone to Chironico to check a new problem from Giuliano Cameroni, Walk the Line 8a+!
I got there, tried to place the four crash pads in the right spot and immediately started to warm up trying the sequences also with the help of a rope. The problem is not really tall but the landing is a bit sketchy and falling without a spotter is not ideal.
I started giving attempts from the beginning but sometimes I felt a bit uncomfortable and just dropped off...
After a while I gave one great try and got to the last move but couldn't commit to the next hold! So I tried the last sequence with the rope again and eventually changed my beta a little bit doing a "less safe" but more efficient sequence.
Next go was the good one! I climbed well and without big problems until the last few moves. I was a bit scared but without hesitations I got the weird toe hook above the head and eventually topped it out in a big adrenaline rush!

Great problem and congrats again to Giuliano to have put up one of the best problems of this grade in Chironico!...

Well as I said before the weather is still bad but I keep my fingers crossed and hope in a climbable weekend on the Swiss granite... I'm really motivated to put some more efforts in a hard problem I just started to try on sunday...

Until the next!

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