lunedì 21 giugno 2010

Weekend in Céüse!

Last weekend I was in Céüse climbing with a group of friends!
We had a great two days even if the weather was not the best. It was cloudy,cold and windy but climbing here is always the best in the world!

Since I only had a couple of days I focused my attention on a route I was close to do last summer... L'Arcademicien 8c at the Demi Lune sector. It's a great technical route in typical Céüse style with many moves on mini features,small pockets and crimpers!
Unfortunately a few days ago Stephanie Bodet broke a crux hold,a small pebble on the hardest sequence and now the beta is changed and much harder on the link(more sustained).

After one try to remember all the moves once again I started to give some proper attempts but the cold temps didn't help at all. I climbed a few times till the crux where the hold had broken but my fingers were all the time totally numb plus the sequence is more powerful and I was pumped too...

Well I didn't climb Arcademicien but I hope to do it next time with some better temps and endurance!! For me it is the best 8c in Céüse and I'm really syked to try it again!
But first I'm going to The Netherlands for the Bouldering World Cup in Eindhoven so wish me luck!!...
Peace out!

martedì 8 giugno 2010

Boulder and Vail!

I'm just back home from a short week in the United States.
After a long travel we arrived in Boulder Colorado where we settled for a couple of days. We spent these two days just chilling in the hotel,walking in the downtown and climbing a bit at The Spot! And we went a couple of hours in Boulder Canyon visiting the famous The Game and another 8b+ called Midnight Express! Very nice hard problems on very good rock!

Next day we drove to Vail!
Qualifications were okey and I got in semis at 15th place... To be honest american's is not my climbing style at all with very gymnastic and powerful moves on decent but always very slopey holds... but I really enjoyed the problems though! Plus in Vail is very easy and fast to get super pumped and it's hard to breath properly because of the elevation... In fact Vail is at about 2500meters on sea level...
Semis were on saturday morning and I felt good on the first two blocs. Third bloc was on the huge steep central wall. It started with a kind of weird double dyno then long moves on pinches. I missed the dyno a couple of times and once I didn't stuck the bonus pinch... Well if I had got that bonus at first try(totally possible) I would have been in the finals...
At the end I finished 7th!
Finals were a great show with Daniel dominating in front of the japanese Hori and Kilian! My slovenian buddy Kruder totally crushed the comp too and got 4th but it was the only finalist to easily do the one arm jump on problem 4!! So crazy!...
In the girls Chloe won her first long awaited World Cup...very nice!
Official results are here!
And to finish the day in the best way we had a great crunk dancing party in one of the best clubs in Vail with a very international scene!! So sick!...
Next comp for me is in Eindhoven in three weeks but now it's time for some real rock again and a few plastic sesh to keep warmed up for next comps!!...