lunedì 2 settembre 2013

Post Brazil weeks!

Hey there!

After Brazil I really needed to come back in shape.
The timing was perfect since a new climbing gym in Milano had just opened! This new training facility was perfect to start again and keep me motivated for a while... So I planned a little training program to be sure to get in good shape for september.

Every week I felt like I was slowly getting back in proper shape so I decided to take some days off and drove to Frankenjura to test my form on real rock...
Usually summer is not the best season for climbing in Frankenjura but the temperatures were not too high and I could send some hard stuffs!
In more or less a week of climbing I was able to repeat "Penumbral Solar Eclipse" 8c on my first day, "Battle Cat" 8c+ and "Intercooler" 8c in the same day!
I also had some good attempts on a 9a called "Sever the Wicked Hand" and I hope to finish it off the next time...

A couple of days of rest after I returned from Germany it was back to the gym for the last weeks before leaving again!
In between training days I managed to take some days on the rock especially in a cool bouldering spot called Champorcher in the Aosta Valley.
Every day in Champorcher was good times with friends, opening new lines and trying the hard testpieces from Niccolò Ceria.
Here is a small list of the climbs I recently opened and repeated in the last days there:
- Jeezy Creezy 7a+ FA
- Minnato Prepotente 7b FA
- Può Accompagnare Solo 7b+ FA
- Brown Dampness 7c FA
- Yellow Fever 7c 2nd Ascent
- Straight Out of Darkness 7c (FLASH)  2nd Ascent
- Orange Madness 8a 2nd Ascent
- Murano 8b 2nd Ascent
gabri moroni _ murano from rivoli on Vimeo.

Last weekend I finally had the chance to check out a place I really wanted to visit since a long time, Fionnay in the Valais region of Switzerland!
The place is just beautiful and the boulders overcame my expectations. The area is not huge but every sector has its own kind of rock and style.

I felt very good during the weekend and I quickly sent some of the hard classics Fionnay has to offer.
I was really motivated to try to flash some of them but eventually it didn't happen... But I was very close on some of them. Especially on "Scarred for Life high" and "Seveso", with a bit more luck I'm pretty sure it could have been possible...
On some problems I found the given grades a little bit weird in comparison to others in the same spot. It's strange because some of these problems are opened and often repeated from some of the best climbers in the world with alot of experience in grades... But basically I don't really care since they are all beautiful and unique boulders and I really enjoyed them!
Here is the little list of the boulders I climbed on the weekend with my personal grades:
- Chute Fatal 7c+ (Given 8a+)
- Seveso 8a (Given 8b)
- Scarred for Life high 8a+ (2nd go)
- L'Eau Water Solo 8a+ (Given 8a+/b)

This is the last week of training then it's time to hit the road for at least one and a half month!
The plan is driving to the Frankenjura for a few days, then going to Stuttgart for the only comp I take part this year, the ADIDAS ROCKSTARS bouldering competition! I have no big expectations since I haven't been competing for a long time, but it is going to be a great event and I don't want to miss it!
 After the weekend in Stuttgart I will be back in the Frankenjura for three weeks trying to finish some projects I left from the last trips and send some new ones!
And last but not least, in october I'm going to Kalymnos for the North Face Climbing Festival!...

Stay tuned!...