giovedì 24 marzo 2011

Nuova guida in uscita: PASSAGGIO A NORD-OVEST

Vie e falesie nel Piemonte occidentale
Maurizio Oviglia, Fiorenzo Michelin

Una guida che getta uno sguardo globale sull'arrampicata nelle valli occidentali del Piemonte.
Dopo la prima edizione del 2005 ecco un aggiornamento, riveduto e corretto di un libro che tenta di accomunare realtà diverse ma geograficamente adiacenti.
Dalla Val Pellice, alla Rocca Sbarua, dalla Val di Susa alla Val Chisone in un viaggio che attraverso le pareti e le falesie presenti narra la storia di una parte importante dell'arrampicata piemontese.

In copertina: Gabriele Moroni su GEO 8c Falesia dell'Alta Tensione Val di Susa

lunedì 21 marzo 2011

Action Directe video!

After nearly one year here it is. The Action Directe video by Davide Zaccone! Enjoy!

watch in HD on youtube!

martedì 8 marzo 2011

It's Bouldering time!!!

Here I am again...sorry for the lack of updates but nothing so special happened during these last couple of months! Only training three times a week to get in shape and some rock in the weekends.
But at least I'm starting to feel good and stronger every day...
I took two weeks off from the training regime to test my form. First week near home, Ticino and Aosta Valley, trying to finish a couple of epic problems I had been close to do in the past!
Second week more in "holiday mode"! In Fontainebleau, the Mecca of Bouldering!
We spent a very good week in term of weather and conditions. The only shame for me was the lack of skin... In fact I already started the trip with completely red tips due to the many attempts I did on Confessions the day before!

Now I will take another week of resting and easy climbing before two or three other hard weeks of training in preparation of the first Bouldering World Cup comp in Milano mid april.
I hope to get in perfect shape for this important appointment... my big goal is to get into the finals and get back in the competitions game after a unsuccessful season last year...
We will see!

Here is a small list(+video) of the boulders I climbed during the last weeks:

- Confessions 8b Cresciano

- La Proue 8b Cresciano

- Gabry Traverse 8b traverse Cubo (First Ascent/35moves)
- Soilwork 8a+ Chironico (FLASH)

- Gecko 8a+ Fontainebleau (did in 5tries/Niccolò Ceria's and my ascent in the video)

- Fata Morgana bas 8a+ Fontainebleau (did just after the stand)

- Megaloman 8a/a+ Cubo
- Fata Morgana 8a Fontainebleau
- Le Beaux Quartiers 8a Fontainebleau
- Nobody ist der Größte 8a Chironico
- Controle Technique 7c+ Fontainebleau
- Bridge over troubled water 7c+ Chironico
- Jackall extension 7c+ Cubo (First Ascent)
- Symbiose 7c Fontainebleau (FLASH)
- Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche 7c Fontainebleau (FLASH)
- Noir desire Fontainebleau 7c (FLASH)