lunedì 12 luglio 2010

Elementi di disturbo

Last thursday I climbed a new route in Gressoney.
Name is "Elementi di disturbo", a 25 meters all natural granite route bolted by Alberto Gnerro a few years ago! After 10 easy vertical meters the wall become steeper and here the hardest part of the route is...about 10 hard and technical moves on very bad holds at about 8a+ bloc!! After the crux and a small shake point it follows a resistence 8a route with some heinous moves!

I tried this project for a few days last summer but I didn't manage to find the right solution for the crux... This year I came back with new motivation and during the first day back on it I was already able to do all the crux moves!

I tried the route another 3 days this year... 2nd day back on the route I found a new higher foot hold and the hardest moves of the crux were a bit less weird!...
3rd day on I fell a couple of times at the last hard move of the crux untill everything finally clicked on my 3rd attempts of the day. Every move felt perfect and I climbed it to the top!!

Elementi di disturbo is actually my hardest FA so far and I'm very proud of it. It's a very good route with a nice line in a great summer place in the mountains...I hope somebody will come to try it soon!

About the grade I'm not really sure because I am the only one who tried it but of course it's not easy... In my opinion it's a very hard 8c+(and maybe close to 8c+/9a) but I wait for a repeat to confirm the grade!
So first summer project has gone so we will see what's next!!??...Ceuse,Zillertal,Switzerland??!!
Stay tuned!

ps: pictures are video frames by Marzio Nardi

martedì 6 luglio 2010


Hey everybody!
During the last two weekends I took part at two Bouldering World Cups in Eindhoven and Sheffield!
Both comps were very well organized but for me they were a big flop!
I could usually get into semis but then I couldn't climb at 100% and with the right head.
Season is going very bad for me for different reasons...
- wrong training regime for competitions
- low motivation at training
- low motivation at comps
- climbing in bad mood at comps
- big problems with the Italian Team coach(different way of thinking and point of views)

Now I have about 10days before the next comp in Arco but training is impossible for me with this heat... So my plan is trying to climb on rock as much as possible and keep a decent shape for Arco and the next projects and trips!

Tomorrow I'm off to Gressoney(Aosta Valley) to try a very hard granite project it has been in my mind for one year! It's basically a 4bolts 6b followed by a 10moves crimpy and technical 8a+/b bloc(?) followed by another 15meters of 8a/a+ route... It is going to be very difficult!... Last week I did all the moves of the crux so I'm pretty sure it can go with some hard work!!
Can't wait!