venerdì 24 agosto 2012

Stuttgart and Frankenjura!

I just got back from a two weeks trip in Germany!
I've been travelling with my friend Ema.

First we drove to Stuttgart where I competed at the invitational Adidas Rockstars bouldering comp! It has been a great event perfectly organized! Every athlete had a hotel room in front of the Porsche Arena where the comp was held! Free dinners both nights, food and drinks vauchers and so on! We were finally treated like we should be!
And of course the competition was a big show with very nice walls,good route setting,lights,music bands playing etc!!
This has been the first real competition in a year or more so it was a bit hard to get used again but I was very psyched and I eventually got in the right mood!...
Qualification round was not so difficult, I climbed well and motivated and I've been very close to flash all the five boulders! Finally I flashed just four of them but I fell going for the top hold twice on the last boulder!... Of course it was enough to pass the round and I was going into semis in 7th place!
Semi finals were much harder! The problems were all doable but at the end I could top only two of the four problems in too many attempts and it was actually not enough to get in final!
I finished 11th!... not a great result but not so bad either since I had not climbed on a "comp style" boulder in a long time and my only training facility lately has been my fingerboard and sometimes the gym...
Result are here!
Big up to Sean Mc Coll and Alex Puccio for their victory!

After Stuttgart we drove a couple of hours NE to the Frankenjura for a ten days of climbing on some of the best rock in the world!
Weather has been good and sunny for all the time. At the beginning temps were very good for the season so without wasting time I started trying an 8c+ called Kawashuwu...
On my second try I pulled too much on a small mono and got my annular a bit tweaked! This means I had to avoid small monos and be careful!
After a couple of days the temps started to increase and climbing became more difficult... less friction and a big waste of tries!!But of course still climbable!
But the good thing was that I was feeling pretty fit!

In a bit more than a week I sent a few hard routes in less than ideal conditions:
- Odd Fellows 8c;  nice route with a technical and crimpy crux at the top.
- Father and Son 8c;  different style than the usual FJ's hard routes, some of the best holds and moves.
- Kompressor 8c;  bouldery route on a roof with a crux involving a slopey crack and a fist jam!
- Headcrash 8b+/c: hardest of the routes I did this trip in my opinion!One of the best lines in FJ!

Sorry no photos or videos this time...

martedì 7 agosto 2012

A long and hot july and a bright future!

Hey there!
Sorry again for the lack of updates but after Frankenjura in may I couldn't climb outside much due to other obligations...
In june I spent a week or so in Ceüse in order to start trying Biographie, one of my primary projects for the summer! I had really bad conditions in these days! First wet after a huge storm then super warm and greasy... so I could try it only for a few days but I felt not so bad on the route!
But I had to go back home for a while for some important stuffs before going back to my favourite crag and project!!...
During these days I got a big work offer for all july and after some thought I decided to accept the job! I've been pretty broke lately and this was the best decision I could make! That means bye bye Ceüse for this year!
So the last month has been all about working, training in the evenings and of course possibly climbing in the weekends!
Now the work is kind of over(only a couple more weeks in september), I'm free for all august and I don't regret anything about my decision since it was not so hard as I thought and I feel the training is starting to pay off!...

Last weekend I took part at an international bouldering invitational comp in L'Aquila(Italy) where I ended 2nd after Guigui Glairon Mondet! The event has been great and for a good cause! If you don't know it L'Aquila has been totally destroyed from a eartquake in 2009! The town has a big climbing tradition and organized many important climbing comps in the past... This event was the first organized after the earthquake and it was a good way to know climbing again in the town!
Finals were in the night in a big and packed square! 
I also climbed a couple of days in the local areas and I can't wait to return soon!
Here is the video of the event!

I'm looking forward to the next months! I have big plans for the near future so this means I will travel alot... 
Tomorrow I'm heading to Germany where I will compete at the Adidas Rockstars event! After this I will spend a week or so in my lovely Frankenjura praying for decent conditions!
Then I plan to go to Arco at the end of august/beginning of june. I still don't know if I will compete or not at the Rock Master but for sure I will be around!
September will be all about work and The North Face Climbing Festival in Kalymnos at the end of the month!
In October I will go to Frankenjura for a month!
November I still don't know but I'd like to finish my nemesis project Goldrake in Cornalba!
And probably I will go to Argentina for the Petzl RocTrip!

And finally I'm planning to spend some months in Spain this winter!...

The future looks bright!