venerdì 17 dicembre 2010

GEO video!

Nice little reminder video of GEO 8c FA in Borgone Val di Susa!
Made with a cellphone!! but the result is excellent!
by Volx Italia

Geo by Gabry Moroni from VERTICAL ROCK & VOLX ITALIA on Vimeo.

martedì 7 dicembre 2010

Il Frutto del Diavolo video!

Here is a little clip of one of my best routes so far! My very own creature! Il Frutto del Diavolo in Trento(Italy)...

Il frutto del diavolo from Gruppo Struktura on Vimeo.

video by Gruppo Struktura
watch it also on HD here!

domenica 5 dicembre 2010

Funny shit!!

Hey there!
I wanna post this cool video by two american friends Carlo and Jon because it's so funny!
As every climber knows Flash/Onsite is the purest form to climb a rock...
Do you want to know all the tactics of the best flasher in the world?...check it out!

The Greatest Flasher from Carlo Traversi on Vimeo.


venerdì 3 dicembre 2010


Bad weather is still here!!...But at least in between rainy days,snow storms and wet days I had the chance to climb in decent conditions...
Swiss granite bouldering could be an option, not so far and it dries very fast but I was a bit bored to try hard stuffs in "not best" conditions so I went to check out a route project some friends talked me about for a long time!
GEO is a route bolted by my friend Adriano an alpine guide from Torino with the help of my guru Marzio Nardi...

Located in the small crag "Alta Tensione" above the village of Borgone(Valle di Susa) it is a perfectly cut 25 meters arete in a beautiful setting... South facing so it's very good in winter and super cold days!!
First time I got below the arete I was stoked and I couldn't wait to climb on it! The climbing was even better... rock is a nice "Mont Blanc" like granite and the route climbs first on the left side then moves on the right side always using the slopey arete!

It starts with a difficult boulder problem with a weird dynamic move to an edge. Then it is very sustained all the way up with difficult slaps and very technical feet moves until you get to a small shake rest on two bad crimpers on more vertical terrain. Next is the redpoint crux where I fell off three times... another weird boulder problem with precise slaps on the arete and very hard feet placements!

I tried GEO for three days during the last week in real glacial temps! I think these were the perfect conditions to climb this type of route...
In my opinion GEO is esthetically one of the best routes in Italy so I would love to see somebody come and try to repeat it! I guess the grade is 8C or more so we will see after it gets climbed again!
All the photos are by Dario Muzzarini Daylight Studio!
Until next time...