sabato 22 settembre 2012

Bus de Vela,Trento. List of the routes! UPDATED november 2012

Unfrortunately this year I could't spend much time in my favourite italian crag. I climbed here just a few days between march and september but I managed to make three great first to sends:

- Happy MILF 8c/c+ in May. Bolted by Valerio Ballardini. I think this route is one of the best 8c's in Italy and defenitely in my top 5 8c's ever... perfect rock and various moves. Still unrepeated.
- Terminegro 8b in August. Last year I bolted a route just left to "Il Frutto del Diavolo". The rig climbs very well until a big hole at 3/4 of the length at about 8a+. After the big hole there is a very blank part which I'm still not sure it will go or not. So I decided to move left after the big hole and climb the top part of the route Mezza Negra. The result is a great and kind of logic line! Repeated by Valerio Ballardini.
- Team Compression 8c in September(actually a few hours ago :-D). Bolted by Giovanni Cozzio(L1) and Nicola de Angelis(L2). This rig climbs all the 8b/b+ "Disaffection for Compression" that finishes at about 2/3 of the wall. After the chain there is a good rest and you can logically link the pitch with the top parts of "Belzebù Climbing Team" or "Il Frutto del Diavolo". This time I managed to link it up with the first but the exit on "Il Frutto del Diavolo" will definitely take a +!...

                                         Happy MILF 8c/c+ photos by Massimo Malpezzi

Here is the updated list of the routes!
from right to left:
1) Il Ladro di Vie 6c+
2) Polveri Sottili 7c (same start of 1 then left)
3) Erezioni Vulcaniche 8a+  (direct start of 2)
4) Bombo Balla 8b/b+
5) Iron Man PROJECT 8c+/9a? (same start of 4 then left)
6) Bassi Dream aka Colpi Bassi PROJECT 8c+?
7) Happy Milf  8c+
8) La Gabi 8c
9) Scoglio de Capri 8b+/c
10) Belzebù Climbing Team 8c (same first 15meters of 9 then left)
11) Disaffection for Compression 8b/b+
11')Team Compression 8c (all 11 and exit on 10)
11")Devil Compression PROJECT 8c+? (all 11 and exit on 12)
12) Il Frutto del Diavolo 8c+/9a (start on the RH side of the ledge)
13) No More Passion 8c (start in the middle of the ledge)
14) Terminegro 8b (start on 13 and finish on 15)
15) Mezza Negra PROJECT 8c? (start on the LH side of the ledge)
16) Siamo Squali nelle Reti 8b+ (same start of 9, traverse left on the holes and exit on 15)
17) Sleep But No Love PROJECT 8?
18) Le Tre Madonne PROJECT 8? (same first 15meters of 17 then left)
19) Gio's route 7c
20) Open Bar PROJECT 8c+?
20')Tigre contro Tigre PROJECT 9a? (first 4 bolts of 20 then right)
21) Kittatterra PROJECT 8c+?
22) Iggy Pop 7c+ (LH start of 21 from the top of the house)
23) Er Bus 8a/a+
24) L'insaziabile 8b
25) Lioness 8b/b+ (same start of 24)
26) It's mine 8a+ (same start of 24)
27) L'Abuso del Buso 8a (same start of 24)
28) Pollon 8a
29) Tajerino 8a
30) Dragon 7b+ (same start of 29)
31) Bastardi 7a+ (same start of 29)
32) Route 666 6c
33) Il Panettiere 7c
34) Bella Regis 8c/c+ (same start of 33 then right on the prow)
35) Re de Roma PROJECT 8b+?
36) Peter Panico 7b
37) People Have the Power 7b

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