Nuova guida in uscita: PASSAGGIO A NORD-OVEST

PASSAGGIO A NORD-OVEST
Vie e falesie nel Piemonte occidentale
Maurizio Oviglia, Fiorenzo Michelin

Una guida che getta uno sguardo globale sull'arrampicata nelle valli occidentali del Piemonte.
Dopo la prima edizione del 2005 ecco un aggiornamento, riveduto e corretto di un libro che tenta di accomunare realtà diverse ma geograficamente adiacenti.
Dalla Val Pellice, alla Rocca Sbarua, dalla Val di Susa alla Val Chisone in un viaggio che attraverso le pareti e le falesie presenti narra la storia di una parte importante dell'arrampicata piemontese.

In copertina: Gabriele Moroni su GEO 8c Falesia dell'Alta Tensione Val di Susa

Action Directe video!

After nearly one year here it is. The Action Directe video by Davide Zaccone! Enjoy!

watch in HD on youtube!

It's Bouldering time!!!

Here I am again...sorry for the lack of updates but nothing so special happened during these last couple of months! Only training three times a week to get in shape and some rock in the weekends.
But at least I'm starting to feel good and stronger every day...
I took two weeks off from the training regime to test my form. First week near home, Ticino and Aosta Valley, trying to finish a couple of epic problems I had been close to do in the past!
Second week more in "holiday mode"! In Fontainebleau, the Mecca of Bouldering!
We spent a very good week in term of weather and conditions. The only shame for me was the lack of skin... In fact I already started the trip with completely red tips due to the many attempts I did on Confessions the day before!

Now I will take another week of resting and easy climbing before two or three other hard weeks of training in preparation of the first Bouldering World Cup comp in Milano mid april.
I hope to get in perfect shape for this important appointment... my big goal is to get into the finals and get back in the competitions game after a unsuccessful season last year...
We will see!

Here is a small list(+video) of the boulders I climbed during the last weeks:

- Confessions 8b Cresciano


- La Proue 8b Cresciano


- Gabry Traverse 8b traverse Cubo (First Ascent/35moves)
- Soilwork 8a+ Chironico (FLASH)

- Gecko 8a+ Fontainebleau (did in 5tries/Niccolò Ceria's and my ascent in the video)


- Fata Morgana bas 8a+ Fontainebleau (did just after the stand)


- Megaloman 8a/a+ Cubo
- Fata Morgana 8a Fontainebleau
- Le Beaux Quartiers 8a Fontainebleau
- Nobody ist der Größte 8a Chironico
- Controle Technique 7c+ Fontainebleau
- Bridge over troubled water 7c+ Chironico
- Jackall extension 7c+ Cubo (First Ascent)
- Symbiose 7c Fontainebleau (FLASH)
- Cent Pofs et Sans Reproche 7c Fontainebleau (FLASH)
- Noir desire Fontainebleau 7c (FLASH)

Training!!

Not much happened in these last weeks only alot of training training training in the gym!!! I just wanna get stronger!...
I'm planning on hitting the gym three times a week for another month at least and bouldering a bit in Ticino to see if I could finish some problems and test my fitness level!
In march I would like to make a trip... Siurana or Fontainebleau I still don't know...

Here is a small clip of probably the worst 8a in Cresciano... traversing,dubby and it ends matching on a good hold! But a good trainer and fun to climb!

gabriele moroni _ backgammon sit from rivoli on Vimeo.

Nice video about my buddy Baistra made by my other buddy Mardoc!

Huge props to my friend Enrico Baistrocchi! On December 26th he climbed Shadowfax in Chironico,Swiss... his first 8b!!
Here is a cool video about his little interesting story on the problem... Made by Davide Mardegan!
Enjoy!

MA I SOGNI NON SI REALIZZANO MAI from MARDOC on Vimeo.

Buma Ye!!

Last wednesday, on my last day in Spain, I finally climbed one of my trip's projects, Buma Ye 8c+ in the Laboratori sector in Margalef!
I had some hard days of work on it... I first thought I could climb it in a few attempts and I made some great links falling at the last hard moves! Then I had many bad days: bad shape,low syke,tired,intense new year's party + recover etc...

The end of the trip came so fast and I still didn't climb none of my projects...
I rested the day before in order to give one last effort to Buma Ye. I give one first try to check the moves again and brush the holds! I feel so bad,pumped and every move feels so heinous.

Well last try last chance I say...
With the last power I have I manage to pass the first part and here I am again at the last crux to get the gaston. I shake well and thanks to the support of my friends I stick the move to the gaston! After another good rest I climb the easier but so technical part till the top of the cliff! What a good way to finish a trip!...
Here is the video of the ascent:http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=1824722181548

GEO video!

Nice little reminder video of GEO 8c FA in Borgone Val di Susa!
Made with a cellphone!! but the result is excellent!
by Volx Italia

Geo by Gabry Moroni from VERTICAL ROCK & VOLX ITALIA on Vimeo.

Il Frutto del Diavolo video!

Here is a little clip of one of my best routes so far! My very own creature! Il Frutto del Diavolo in Trento(Italy)...

Il frutto del diavolo from Gruppo Struktura on Vimeo.

video by Gruppo Struktura
watch it also on HD here!

Funny shit!!

Hey there!
I wanna post this cool video by two american friends Carlo and Jon because it's so funny!
As every climber knows Flash/Onsite is the purest form to climb a rock...
Do you want to know all the tactics of the best flasher in the world?...check it out!

The Greatest Flasher from Carlo Traversi on Vimeo.

Gabri

GEO!

Bad weather is still here!!...But at least in between rainy days,snow storms and wet days I had the chance to climb in decent conditions...
Swiss granite bouldering could be an option, not so far and it dries very fast but I was a bit bored to try hard stuffs in "not best" conditions so I went to check out a route project some friends talked me about for a long time!
GEO is a route bolted by my friend Adriano an alpine guide from Torino with the help of my guru Marzio Nardi...

Located in the small crag "Alta Tensione" above the village of Borgone(Valle di Susa) it is a perfectly cut 25 meters arete in a beautiful setting... South facing so it's very good in winter and super cold days!!
First time I got below the arete I was stoked and I couldn't wait to climb on it! The climbing was even better... rock is a nice "Mont Blanc" like granite and the route climbs first on the left side then moves on the right side always using the slopey arete!

It starts with a difficult boulder problem with a weird dynamic move to an edge. Then it is very sustained all the way up with difficult slaps and very technical feet moves until you get to a small shake rest on two bad crimpers on more vertical terrain. Next is the redpoint crux where I fell off three times... another weird boulder problem with precise slaps on the arete and very hard feet placements!

I tried GEO for three days during the last week in real glacial temps! I think these were the perfect conditions to climb this type of route...
In my opinion GEO is esthetically one of the best routes in Italy so I would love to see somebody come and try to repeat it! I guess the grade is 8C or more so we will see after it gets climbed again!
All the photos are by Dario Muzzarini Daylight Studio!
Until next time...
Gabri