Training!!

Not much happened in these last weeks only alot of training training training in the gym!!! I just wanna get stronger!...
I'm planning on hitting the gym three times a week for another month at least and bouldering a bit in Ticino to see if I could finish some problems and test my fitness level!
In march I would like to make a trip... Siurana or Fontainebleau I still don't know...

Here is a small clip of probably the worst 8a in Cresciano... traversing,dubby and it ends matching on a good hold! But a good trainer and fun to climb!

gabriele moroni _ backgammon sit from rivoli on Vimeo.

Nice video about my buddy Baistra made by my other buddy Mardoc!

Huge props to my friend Enrico Baistrocchi! On December 26th he climbed Shadowfax in Chironico,Swiss... his first 8b!!
Here is a cool video about his little interesting story on the problem... Made by Davide Mardegan!
Enjoy!

MA I SOGNI NON SI REALIZZANO MAI from MARDOC on Vimeo.

Buma Ye!!

Last wednesday, on my last day in Spain, I finally climbed one of my trip's projects, Buma Ye 8c+ in the Laboratori sector in Margalef!
I had some hard days of work on it... I first thought I could climb it in a few attempts and I made some great links falling at the last hard moves! Then I had many bad days: bad shape,low syke,tired,intense new year's party + recover etc...

The end of the trip came so fast and I still didn't climb none of my projects...
I rested the day before in order to give one last effort to Buma Ye. I give one first try to check the moves again and brush the holds! I feel so bad,pumped and every move feels so heinous.

Well last try last chance I say...
With the last power I have I manage to pass the first part and here I am again at the last crux to get the gaston. I shake well and thanks to the support of my friends I stick the move to the gaston! After another good rest I climb the easier but so technical part till the top of the cliff! What a good way to finish a trip!...
Here is the video of the ascent:http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=1824722181548

GEO video!

Nice little reminder video of GEO 8c FA in Borgone Val di Susa!
Made with a cellphone!! but the result is excellent!
by Volx Italia

Geo by Gabry Moroni from VERTICAL ROCK & VOLX ITALIA on Vimeo.

Il Frutto del Diavolo video!

Here is a little clip of one of my best routes so far! My very own creature! Il Frutto del Diavolo in Trento(Italy)...

Il frutto del diavolo from Gruppo Struktura on Vimeo.

video by Gruppo Struktura
watch it also on HD here!

Funny shit!!

Hey there!
I wanna post this cool video by two american friends Carlo and Jon because it's so funny!
As every climber knows Flash/Onsite is the purest form to climb a rock...
Do you want to know all the tactics of the best flasher in the world?...check it out!

The Greatest Flasher from Carlo Traversi on Vimeo.

Gabri

GEO!

Bad weather is still here!!...But at least in between rainy days,snow storms and wet days I had the chance to climb in decent conditions...
Swiss granite bouldering could be an option, not so far and it dries very fast but I was a bit bored to try hard stuffs in "not best" conditions so I went to check out a route project some friends talked me about for a long time!
GEO is a route bolted by my friend Adriano an alpine guide from Torino with the help of my guru Marzio Nardi...

Located in the small crag "Alta Tensione" above the village of Borgone(Valle di Susa) it is a perfectly cut 25 meters arete in a beautiful setting... South facing so it's very good in winter and super cold days!!
First time I got below the arete I was stoked and I couldn't wait to climb on it! The climbing was even better... rock is a nice "Mont Blanc" like granite and the route climbs first on the left side then moves on the right side always using the slopey arete!

It starts with a difficult boulder problem with a weird dynamic move to an edge. Then it is very sustained all the way up with difficult slaps and very technical feet moves until you get to a small shake rest on two bad crimpers on more vertical terrain. Next is the redpoint crux where I fell off three times... another weird boulder problem with precise slaps on the arete and very hard feet placements!

I tried GEO for three days during the last week in real glacial temps! I think these were the perfect conditions to climb this type of route...
In my opinion GEO is esthetically one of the best routes in Italy so I would love to see somebody come and try to repeat it! I guess the grade is 8C or more so we will see after it gets climbed again!
All the photos are by Dario Muzzarini Daylight Studio!
Until next time...
Gabri

rain=wet crags=bouldering

Hey everybody!

Due to the really bad weather during the last weeks every crag in Northern Italy/France/Slovenia etc. was wet so I've been bouldering alot in Switzerland! Thank god granite dries fast!!
I've been climbing one day in Chironico where I found some dry rock...I cleaned a sit start of an ancient problem I did from the stand start a few years ago at about 7c(one move). New problem adds only one shouldery move from a sloper to a small crimpy pocket LH. From here you get a worst slopey pocket RH, smear left foot and dyno for a good jug!! So good and very fun to climb! At about 7c+!
Uncut footage from the send is here(video by Gio):


The day after me and Niki drove three hours to the Swiss Valais with one problem in our mind... La Danse de Barlog(original start,first 8b bloc in the world by Fred Nicole) in Branson!!
We got there and we quickly warmed up on the back side of the bloc! After half an hour we were already sitting at the start of our day goal... We both gave a flash attempt falling at the first hard move... I tried the sequences for a few minutes and after a five minutes rest I gave another attempt!False start... Next go I was at the top jug!! Yeah!...
Niki was having some problems with the first two difficult moves after the start but in a bunch of tries he found a good foot beta that suited him well and he sent it too... We both couldn't believe we were at the top of this great classic in a short session!
Meanwhile Niki was giving attempts to LDDB I started working on Radja! Another super classic, likely the first 8b+ in the world now settled at hard 8b!
Thanks to Fred and Theo video watched "on place" with my laptop I had the beta clear in my mind! The shouldery style of the problem suited me pretty good and after a good hour or so of work and some breaks I decided to give a proper go! already from the start I felt so good and solid on every move and I suddently found myself on the top of the boulder... Incredible! I really love feeling light, climbing in the right mood and go in crush mode! :-D
I really want to thank the great friction and Niccolò for the support!
At the end of the day we both got shut down from the first 8a in Switzerland, La Tractione Celeste opened of course by Fred... We have been so close but soon the strenght dropped off and the skin got more and more trashed... Next time!!
I'm really looking forward to climb again here and see what the Valais has yet to offer! Other areas look great too!

Margalef express trip and Bouldering in Ticino part 2!

Last week I decided to take a small four days trip to Margalef,Spain!
A friend of mine proposed to join some other friends who were already there so we bought a ticket in the evening and the morning after we were on a plane. I had a great trip with nice people and lots of fun. I also climbed some good routes with an 8c(pretty soft)done in three attempts...Aitzol in the Finestra sector! I began to try some harder routes I would love to climb on my longer trip at Chrismas time...Can't wait to go back to Catalan rocks!

Last saturday I also took a day trip to Chironico,Switzerland where I climbed the hard and not so often repeated The Crackline opened by Markus Windisch some years ago!!Syked!
Here is an uncut video of the send by Gio:


And a couple of videos on two 7c's I climbed the same day!

Slimeline 7c flash:


Made in Ticino 7c:


Rain has arrived... It's time for some training in the gym to keep in good shape for the upcoming trips!!
Until the next time...
Gabri

Some bouldering in Ticino!

Hi everybody!
After some months only rope climbing I decided to take a few bouldering sessions on rock! Ticino is in prime conditions now and the perfect granite feels so sticky!
During the last 10days I climbed twice in Brione and twice in Chironico!...
I had very good times climbing on some moderates to get into good bouldering shape again before starting to work on something harder...
I flashed a couple of 7c's and one 7c+ called Side Effect and climbed three very nice 8's with the beautiful and dangerous Cellar Door in Brione!So sick!

Here is some raw footage of me sending Apollo 8a+ at Brione!