mercoledì 19 ottobre 2011

Bella Regis!

Last couple of weeks I was in Trento climbing in the beautiful crags of the area!
I left home with one route in the head. I bolted this beautiful line during a few days last spring and called it Bella Regis!...
The rock formation is one of the most impressive I've ever seen, a huge roof prow and the route follows exactly the arete line with no possibility to go right or left!
When I bolted it I hoped there were enough features to climb it and I hoped to find a next level route...
After a few goes to clean and put chalk on it I figured out the moves and I realized the route would have not been that hard... well very difficult but actually not in the 9th grade... little shame but the route remains one of the best lines I've seen around and I'm very proud it is one my creature!!
I tried Bella Regis a couple of days after I bolted it, a couple of days this summer after the World Champs in Arco in the heat and finally I sent this season with decent conditions!
So psyched the process is over! From visualizing the line (impossible not to notice it though) passing from bolting,cleaning,put some efforts and finally do the first ascent!!... I think the grade is around 8c+ but as always I wait for a repetition to confirm the grade!!

photo Matteo Pavana

During the last days in Trento I bolted a new king line just left of my last year's route Il Frutto del Diavolo but I didn't have the chance to try it yet! But It looks hard, especially the upper wall where you have to climb a few meters with only a slopey undercut,a bad edge,a shallow annular(for me)mono, a bad tufa pinch and very little bad footholds...
I also left one project I was pretty close... something very bouldery and hard! I hope to finish it in november if it doesn't get too cold...

But first I'm going to CHINA for the annual Petzl Roctrip in Getu Valley!!
It will be the first Petzl Roctrip of my life and I have no doubt it's going to be a great experience!! Fast trip but it will be worth it...
Can't wait to be under the big arch!!!

photo coll.Petzl

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