Hi everybody! Happy 2012!
First I am sorry for the lack of updates... I didn't write anything for the last month or so but nothing worth a blog post happened!
Well I have to say that in December I was in one of the best shapes I have ever been and after having climbed a few hard routes in a very small amount of tries I decided to move my focus and strenght on something harder...
I have been thinking alot about which could have been my next project and after a bit I realized that one of the hardest routes in Italy was not so far from home in a "new"(for me) crag. Perfect choice!
So I immediately started to try this route called Goldrake in Cornalba near Bergamo.
Goldrake is a 9a+ opened by Adam Ondra(who else?) a couple of years ago. This route is hard!
photo Diego Neonati
Defenitely one of the hardest I've ever tried and actually the hardest I've been close to climb.
And honestly I think it's in my top 5 of the best routes I've been on even though it has two chipped holds at the beginning in a very blank part...
Anyway after some hard days of work I felt I was ready for the send! But then bad luck started to hit me... colder temps, strong wind, holds breaking and so on... Two times I got to the last hard boulder problem and twice I fell with completely numb fingers... Shit!! My first 9a+ has still to wait... Hope to come back to it as soon as possible with warmer temps! Now it is just too cold for a 1000m above sea level crag!
photo Diego Neonati
A few days after falling at the end of Goldrake I left for Spain with high hopes of sending some hard routes... big mistake!! In a two weeks trip I couldn't climb even one of the projects I had in mind...
Biggest PUNT of the trip was on A Muerte my endless(3 years now) nemesis in Siurana(picture)!
Now I'm back at home since three weeks but I didn't climb so much. It's pretty cold out and not very motivating so I've been working a as a route setter in a bouldering/ski comp called Power Powder Contest in Aosta Valley which was lots of fun(i was the route setter for bouldering of course).
I also started training a bit like every winter...
This year I'm very psyched for rope climbing so I plan to train in various gyms and try to work on my resistance which has always been one of my weak points. We will see what happens!
Here is a new video made by Gruppo Struktura,Petzl and Beal about the new crag Bus de Vela in Trento(Italy) and one of the last routes I bolted and then made the first to send... Bella Regis 8c+!
Enjoy!
Yesterday, after only four tries in two days, I was able to climb Riti Tribali 8c+ in Angelone(Specchio del Grifone)! A route opened a few years ago by Adam Ondra in one of his visits in Northern Italy!
It is a cool route... it starts in a small cave with some difficult and physical moves on pinches and tufas until you get to a rest! To this point it could be graded 8b!
After the rest you have a hard and continuous part! The wall become less steep and the climb gets very bouldery and intense on slopers and bad feet... You need to be very precise and careful on this hard part since it's very easy to mess up!...
Last tuesday I went to check out this nice winter crag near Lecco named Masone!
Plan of the day was trying the moves of Adam Ondra's 2009 route Masoniamoci 8c+/9a(maybe 9a he says) and see if it could have become a possible project for the near future!...
On my first day on it I was able to do all the single moves of the starting boulder problem but couldn't even link two of the hardest togheter. And I barely did the crux move, a deadpoint move from two very bad undercuts to a very far slopey rail.
Masoniamoci is defenitely a very bouldery route consisting in a super hard bottom part followed by a short but resistent 8a route!
The first part is about 12 moves long with a kinda jump start to get a sidepull, two terrible shouldery moves on gastons, a very high foot step, a crazy small undercling to match and a final brutal deadpoint move to get a slopey rail... from here you have another 5 easier but still difficult moves to get a good hold! Adam says he felt this section as an 8b boulder and I do the same!
The second part of the route starts right after the good hold with another long move from one bad edge to get a better hold with a weird heel hook... after this last awkward move the difficulty drops significantly! Easier moves on better holds but still pumpy and of course you don't want to fuck up...
On my second day on it I started to link the hardest moves togheter and I had the top part perfectly dialed. After a few more tries I felt so good on the boulder and I fell(twice) at the deadpoint!... Getting close and ready for the send I thought but my skin was trashed and I had to wait for another day...
After one day of rest I got back on my project on saturday. I felt physically good and my skin was healed enough for a few good tries! Luckily I only needed one! On my first go of the day everything went perfectly and still in the morning I was done with my route... I had all the afternoon to chill in the sun and spend time with friends!! Great succesful day!...
In my opinion Masoniamoci is a great bouldery route... for sure one of the best in this style I have done! The rock is a perfect limestone and the route climbs on a great looking blank 40° overhanging wall!...
I feel this route could be comparable in style and difficulty with my own Elementi di Disturbo in Gressoney. The boulder problem on EdD is maybe a bit easier but the top is harder and more resistent... I think the slash grade is perfect for both these two routes I have climbed! 8C+/9A!
Here is a video of the actual ascent by Maurizio Mangione:
After China I needed a break... a mix of 30+ hours of travel and airports,jet lag and fatigue killed my body and my mind...
So I took one week of rest. After this stop I was starting to feel ok so I slowly began to climb again... First a couple of times in the gym doing easy stuffs then some fingerboard sessions at home and finally a couple of days on the rock again!
Now I feel I'm getting in good shape again and this weekend I spent my last day of the season in Trento(Bus de Vela). I had a little, but very long, project I couldn't do the last time I was here...
This route is the only link up route(but pretty logical) in the crag and it is very good and fun to climb!
This time despite the glacial temps I didn't punt at the last move and I was able to get the first to send on my first go of the day placing almost all the 15quickdraws on this 35meters route!
"Siamo squali nelle reti" is the name and the grade is around 8b+!!...
Hey everybody!
Here I am again after a couple of weeks since my last post...
During this time I've been far away from home... China exactly, Getu Valley to be more precise!
In this not so well know area was held the annual Petzl RocTrip!
Getu is a small rural village in perfect Chinese style... but for about a week it has been transformed in a real climbers base camp...
Petzl did a huge work to make this RocTrip possible and at the end I would say It was one of the best event I took part in my life! A huge community of climbers and friends lost in the heart of China... Every day was just waking up, noodle breakfast, climbing a muerte all day long on the beautiful crags, rice dinner and party every night with videos,slideshows and of course local beer and baijiu rice wine!!
Rock climbing in Getu is just amazing! The huge arch is defenitely one of the most impressive things I've seen. It's so massive you can't even imagine until you are there! Since I didn't have many days I climbed every day here... and I got very syked with a project!
The route is called Coup de Bambou! It's a direct start of an 8c/+ called Polvo Tecnico. Michael Fuselier bolted this direct version and started trying it with Enzo Oddo a couple of days before I got there!
Since I saw the route for the first time I've been inspired! Watching Mike and Enzo trying it, the route seemed to suit my style really well... at least the first part! The style and the features of the rock remind me a bit of my projects back in Trento!... Plus the desire to make a hard first ascent so far from home is big!
So I said to myself...why not?
photo Beau Kahler 5.10
First day I climb on easier stuffs and learn the style. I decide to attack on my second day!
Already on my first try I'm able to do all the moves... as I thought the bottom part suits well my climbing... about 30° steep wall, big but precise moves, pinches, edges and a few balls features! And of course very bouldery!
Second part is pretty hard for me, less steep,not so hard moves but alot of them and very pumpy with slopers,bad footholds and a few kneebars... basically all my weak points!!
After a couple of days of work with all the homies, Dave,Enzo,Mike,Jon,Gerome etc I have found all the sequences that work for me and I have the top part figured out pretty well! I start to feel ready for some serious links!
One day I fall at the last move of the first part and I know It could go in the next tries but I am running out days... Two more to be precise.
So I decide to rest one and go crush mode on the last one!
On my last day I wake up well rested and syked! At breakfast I meet Jon that looks as syked as me for his project and we get to the Arch pretty early! The Petzl RocTrip is over two days before so we are almost alone at the crag!
I decide to warm up straight on the project to practice the moves one more time! Jon does the same and on his second try he fall at the very last move on his project Polvo Tecnico!! I'm sure he will crush it easily before he leaves!
On my second go of the day I feel very good but I slip on the bottom crux... it's still morning and some holds are humid and greasy. I decide to wait a few hours and try it again with better afternoon conditions! The luck seems to be on my part in fact a nice wind started blowing after my attempt!
photo Beau Kahler 5.10
Some hours later I'm ready one more time at the start of the route... Jon at the grigri, Juju Nadiras behind the camera and a huge support crew of good friends: Dave,Joe,Mel,Petitou,Sean and many others!
First part goes well and I'm at the crux. I execute the crux perfectly and I'm at the weird last hard move of the first part where I fell two days before! This time I barely stuck the move and I move fast till the kneebar rest.
I probably rest five minutes and I think I have to give 100% if I want to send the project!
So from here I start to climb precisely and try to remember every hand and foot placements. Everything goes well and after another couple of shaking points I am at the last sequence, the redpoint crux. Here I try to be as focused as possible... I don't want to fuck up at the last few meters! Even if it's hard and technical and I start to feel really fatigued I don't want to fall!
I pass the hardest move and one more time I try to climb so precise. The last moves go perfectly and I am at the chain in a great state of euphoria!! Coup de Bambou is done and I am proud of this great first ascent!
About the grade as always is difficult to say but many world class climbers tried it in these days and the consensus seems to be 9a so the hardest route in China with Spicy Dumpling by Ethan Pringle in Yangshuo!!
Big thanks to Petzl for make this trip happen,Five Ten, team USA for make me feel part of the crew, team France, Jon for the early start, Dave for the kneepad, Mike for bolting this great route, Marcos for the multipitch warmup, Enzo,Mel,Princess Ricola,Mimin and Zorbey and all the climbers and new friends I met!
Here is a first video about the event! It was shooted on the first days before the RocTrip started so only the French Team and a few others were there but at least you can understand how great the place is!!...
Every time I check out this list of routes and projects I get over syked...
I think it is the right time to show the world what the "hardest crag" in Italy is like...
List of the routes from right to left:
1) 6c+/7a
2) Polveri Sottili 7c (same start of 1 then left)
3) Erezioni Vulcaniche 8a+ (direct start of 2)
4) Bombo Balla 8b/b+
5) Iron Man PROJECT 8c+/9a? (same start of 4 then left)
6) Bassi Dream aka Colpi Bassi PROJECT 8c+?
7) Happy Milf PROJECT 8c/c+?
8) La Gabi 8c
9) Scoglio de Capri 8c
10) Belzebù Climbing Team 8c (same first 15meters of 9 then left)
11) PROJECT (work in progress)
12) Il Frutto del Diavolo 8c+/9a (start on the RH side of the ledge)
13) No More Passion PROJECT 8bc? (start in the middle of the ledge)
14) Mezza Negra PROJECT 8bc? (start on the LH side of the ledge)
15) Siamo Squali nelle Reti 8b+ (same start of 9, traverse left on the holes and exit on 14)
16) Sleep But No Love PROJECT 8?
17) Le Tre Madonne PROJECT 8? (same first 15meters of 16 then left)
18) PROJECT (work in progress)
19) Open Bar PROJECT 8c+?
20) Kittatterra PROJECT 8c+?
21) Iggy Pop 7c+ (LH start of 20 from the top of the house)
22) Er Bus 8a+
23) L'insaziabile 8b
24) Lioness PROJECT 8bc? (same start of 23)
25) It's mine 8a+ (same start of 23)
26) Pollon 8a
27) Tajerino 8a
28) Dragon 7b+ (same start of 27)
29) Bastardi 7a+ (same start of 27)
30) Route 666 6c
31) Il Panettiere 7c
32) Bella Regis 8c+ (same start of 31 then right on the prow)
33) Re de Roma PROJECT
34) Peter Panico 7a+
35) People Have the Power 7b
Last couple of weeks I was in Trento climbing in the beautiful crags of the area! I left home with one route in the head. I bolted this beautiful line during a few days last spring and called it Bella Regis!... The rock formation is one of the most impressive I've ever seen, a huge roof prow and the route follows exactly the arete line with no possibility to go right or left! When I bolted it I hoped there were enough features to climb it and I hoped to find a next level route... After a few goes to clean and put chalk on it I figured out the moves and I realized the route would have not been that hard... well very difficult but actually not in the 9th grade... little shame but the route remains one of the best lines I've seen around and I'm very proud it is one my creature!! I tried Bella Regis a couple of days after I bolted it, a couple of days this summer after the World Champs in Arco in the heat and finally I sent this season with decent conditions! So psyched the process is over! From visualizing the line (impossible not to notice it though) passing from bolting,cleaning,put some efforts and finally do the first ascent!!... I think the grade is around 8c+ but as always I wait for a repetition to confirm the grade!! photo Matteo Pavana
During the last days in Trento I bolted a new king line just left of my last year's route Il Frutto del Diavolo but I didn't have the chance to try it yet! But It looks hard, especially the upper wall where you have to climb a few meters with only a slopey undercut,a bad edge,a shallow annular(for me)mono, a bad tufa pinch and very little bad footholds... I also left one project I was pretty close... something very bouldery and hard! I hope to finish it in november if it doesn't get too cold...
But first I'm going to CHINA for the annual Petzl Roctrip in Getu Valley!! It will be the first Petzl Roctrip of my life and I have no doubt it's going to be a great experience!! Fast trip but it will be worth it... Can't wait to be under the big arch!!! photo coll.Petzl
Hey everybody! Sorry for the lack of updates but during september I've been on the road alot! First in Finale Ligure where I've been routesetting for the Finale For Nepal bouldering competition...3 days of hard work in the heat but it was well worth it! The comp was a great success and everybody liked our boulder problems!... Then in the great Frankenjura! My favoutite place in the world! Since I did Action Directe I've been only another couple of times, once shooting fot the AD video and another time a few days this summer in heinous conditions, hot muggy and full of mosquitos... This was the first time I left Italy without a real project, only a few routes in mind I wanted to try! We got there and first day we decided to climb in the classic Krottensee Turm sector. And of course the first route you see coming from the parking lot is Wallstreet! Wallstreet is the first 8c in the world climbed of course by Wolfgang Gullich in 1987... my same year of birth...good coincidence! So Wallstreet immediately got into my list of projects for this trip! The project didn't seem to last too much in fact from my second go I fell on the last hard move... but I keep falling here on the same move over and over(5 or 6 times) and the route soon becomes a mini epic! After one rest day of rain I decided it was time to step it up and on my last possible attempt of the day, just before the dark I sent the route!! Epic was over and Wallstreet has became one of my all time favourite 8c's!! Thanks again WG for the amazing routes you put up in the past! After completing Wallstreet I chose not have other multiple day projects but rather some daily ones. During the rest of the trip I climbed another couple of routes that were in my "to do" list: - Stonelove 8b+ a very classic Jerry Moffat route climbed in the 1988 - Armstrong 8c very short route by Markus Bock with a hard mono move... I tried this route in the past years but I thought I couldn't do it due to this tiny mono I couldn't pull and fit properly with the index nor the annular... but this time I could do the move with the annular and nothing stopped me to finish it!
Before Frankenjura I spent some days in a beautiful and unknown crag near Lecco called Esino. The climbing here is beautiful and the routes suit perfectly my style. Not too long,bouldery and complex. To get in the style of the crag I started climbing the already estabilished routes... after those I tried a couple of projects! One I could climb it in a day, in a few tries at around 8b+! The other one was harder and I spent a couple of sessions to find the right beta for the crux. This project is called Pizza Connection and it is basically the logical link up of two already existent 8b's with a hard sequence to connect them togheter... A couple of days after Frankenjura I came back to Esino and after a few more tries with one finished at the last move(Again!!...) I sent the route! Psyched! Here is the list of the routes I climbed in Esino this season: - Dirty dancing 8b 2nd ascent - Moby Dick 8b 2nd ascent - Take it easy 8b - Asado 8b 2nd ascent - La grande illusione 8b 2nd ascent - Questione di feeling 8b+ 1st ascent - Pizza Connection 8c 1st ascent (photo by Luca Passini)
Here I am again back at home for a while before bouncing again for a climbing trip...
My summer has been fun!
In July I spent ten days in Arco competing in the Bouldering World Champs but unluckily I got an unsuccessful result... I got in the semis but then completely messed up at them... next time!
During the days after the comp, despite the warm temps I climbed a few times in Trento and I got the first to send of a few new great routes: L'Insaziabile 8b, It's mine 8a+ and Taijerino 8a! All of them are 5stars lines!
One night I even took part at the Arco Rock Legends Ceremony where I was nominated for the Salewa Rock Awards with Adam Ondra,Chris Sharma,Sasha Digiulian and Enzo Oddo...
It has been a great ceremony on a stage in one of the main squares in Arco in front of a big crowd!
After Arco me and a big group of friends we moved to Céüse where we spent about three weeks...
We had very good times and met alot of new friends. Weather has been great for all our staying but a bit too warm for my project... I could try it only a couple of times per day and my skin was completely trashed! I will be back for sure next year with better conditions...
A bit tired of a too crowded Ceuse, hot temps, the big hike and other things we decided to drive to Frankenjura... big mistake! It was even warmer and almost impossible to climb due to the humidity and the annoying mosquitoes. So we drove down to Zillertal for the last few days...
Now I am chilling at home for a couple of weeks and getting ready for the fall season to start...
In a few days I will be routesetting a nice bouldering competition in Finale Ligure called Finale for Nepal! The first prize is a journey in Nepal!!!
After that my plan is to climb in the Arco/Trento area for a month or so with maybe a couple of smaller trips in Zillertal and Frankenjura to finish some projects!
In october I might also take part at the San Vito Climbing Festival in Sicily!
And of course I will go to the China Petzl Roc Trip in the Getu Valley!...
It is going to be a busy fall and I'm pretty psyched for it!
