martedì 18 gennaio 2011

Nice video about my buddy Baistra made by my other buddy Mardoc!

Huge props to my friend Enrico Baistrocchi! On December 26th he climbed Shadowfax in Chironico,Swiss... his first 8b!!
Here is a cool video about his little interesting story on the problem... Made by Davide Mardegan!
Enjoy!

MA I SOGNI NON SI REALIZZANO MAI from MARDOC on Vimeo.

venerdì 7 gennaio 2011

Buma Ye!!

Last wednesday, on my last day in Spain, I finally climbed one of my trip's projects, Buma Ye 8c+ in the Laboratori sector in Margalef!
I had some hard days of work on it... I first thought I could climb it in a few attempts and I made some great links falling at the last hard moves! Then I had many bad days: bad shape,low syke,tired,intense new year's party + recover etc...

The end of the trip came so fast and I still didn't climb none of my projects...
I rested the day before in order to give one last effort to Buma Ye. I give one first try to check the moves again and brush the holds! I feel so bad,pumped and every move feels so heinous.

Well last try last chance I say...
With the last power I have I manage to pass the first part and here I am again at the last crux to get the gaston. I shake well and thanks to the support of my friends I stick the move to the gaston! After another good rest I climb the easier but so technical part till the top of the cliff! What a good way to finish a trip!...
Here is the video of the ascent:http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=1824722181548